Editor’s Note: This is the maiden voyage of a year-long project being undertaken by the fabulous Zach Bührer. His dedication to the burger craft is matched by few and exceeded by none. We hope you enjoy a year of burgers starting right now, exclusively on Heliopolis.
Abby Singer’s April Burger of the Month – “Garden Burger”
My name is Zach Bührer, I’m a professional stand-up comedian, and I have a passion for food. I’m not a chef, but I do love to cook. I’ve entered my soups and breads into contests, I’ve catered many a holiday gathering, and I’m confident that I’m at least just above the layman in understanding culinary technology. Over the course of this weekly article series I will cover as many of the best burgers that the Ark-la-tex has to offer! Some of these articles will be more in-depth than others, and they won’t all be glowing beacons of praise. If I’m really wowed by a burger, I’ll have a lot to say. I’ve eaten at many of the chophouses, cafes, and eateries on my list, and I know my home turf will do its best to deliver.
A burger is an elegant and civilized sandwich; it can be simple or complex, and neither is necessarily outright better than the other. A complicated burger might have a special sauce or rare vegetable topping, or it might be made out of an exotic game meat. On the other hand, a simple burger with simple presentation can also speak a huge testament to its roots.
Abby Singer’s Bistro is a personal favorite restaurant of mine. If I were to rate Shreveport restaurants on quality alone, this restaurant with a downtown view of Texas Street from above the Robinson Film Center would rank near the top of my list, and I don’t even feel bad about my own bias in the Bistro’s favor. I’ve been known to walk down from the office for a payday treat of their delicious chipotle and adobo braised duck nachos — on huge wonton chips!
I digress. You’re not here to read about nachos. This series is about burgers.
When I got there on this particular Thursday evening the restaurant was uncommonly busy, but only really because a movie was starting soon, and everyone wanted to get their dinner before it. I get that; I’m sympathetic. I’ve worked in foodservice before, I can only imagine how hectic it must get for the waitstaff there with having to deal with movie times and the occasional strange downtown event schedule as well. After all, this is the hotspot that The Strand patrons visit after leaving a big show at the theater just around the corner. The wait for my single table was long, but it was well worth it.
When my server, Leena, came to take my order, I was struck with a decision: do I want their usual standard? The mainstay of their “regular” burger, the “Royale with Cheese” (an exceptional sandwich on its own merit, I’m sure)? Or was I brave enough to try something seasonal and out of the ordinary: the “Burger of the Month”?
At my server’s recommendation, I chose this month’s selection: a “Garden Burger;” a short departure from the Royale varying only by its inclusion of alfalfa, avocado, and a house-made green goddess dressing; with my choice of meat, bread, and cheese. I was sold on the avocado alone; I’m a sucker for the delicious fruit, especially on a burger. I opted for ground beef, provolone cheese, and the sourdough bun.
I’m not one to rush perfection, honestly — and with as busy as they were, fifteen minutes felt like a reasonable wait. When my burger arrived, the manager was quick to apologize for having run out of avocado; something I would have liked to know about before I had ordered the burger, but by the looks of this tall sandwich the avocado might have been too much. Not being a complainer, I cut my burger in half to check it out.
The sourdough bun was perfect. For me. Some might say that it was a bit over-grilled, but I personally like the crispy brown edges, and this might have been because their sourdough is extremely soft. I wish I knew their secret, because I’ve tried to make similar doughs before and have never come close to the texture and crumb that I saw in that bread. The garlic butter that it had been toasted in was a perfect compliment to the sourdough’s acidic tang. This bun is obviously more than just a handle, and deserves to be taken seriously.
The toasted underside of the top bun had a smear of the green goddess dressing, with a full ramekin to spare on the side. It had a sharp, sweet flavor that I could not quite place — either dill or watercress or both. I’m a fan of this sort of flavor contrast, and I thought it was a good in concert with the red onions, which I wish there had been more of.
The tiny ramekin of green goddess seemed impractically sized for dipping my burger in, so I found myself just pouring it onto the business edge of my sandwich between bites. I would almost wish that the heaping of alfalfa sprouts had just been tossed in the dressing, but that could hurt the presentation, which was already quite impressive. If not for the taste and quality of the food itself, Abby Singer’s would win my heart with their plating and presentation. Their food is always beautiful.
Underneath the ground beef patty were two thick and meaty slices of — dare I be so cliche? — hearty steak tomato and the less-than-generous portion of red onion. On top of the patty was a slice of melted provolone, with several chops of romaine lettuce. The patty itself was just short of done, my personal preference being medium at the very most. It was still quite juicy, and well seasoned, with a healthy maillard locking in the natural flavors of the beef. Without having the spicy kick as I had hoped, the beef did meet what I’ve come to expect of the Abby Singer’s kitchen: flitting to the sweet end of the umami spectrum, not unlike a good wine — not a particularly expensive one, but like the usual that you always get from the grocery store. The reliable favorite. The faithful staple.
I had intended to cut the burger in half so that I could save a portion for later, but my wits got the better of me and I polished off the whole thing in one sitting. The “Garden Burger,” though their temporary burger of the month, is certainly amazing and worth a try yourself. Get it while you can!
All photos taken by Zach Bührer himself.