If chef Anthony Felan had normal-sized cojones, he might have have opened the Fat Calf Brasserie in the ‘the city of St. George.’

But he’s seen the energy and success of Boz Baucum, Marilynn’s Place, Sione Maumalanga, Ono’s Hawaiian, and Eleazar and Rodrigo Mondragon, Ki Mexico. 

Felan has decided to plant his fleur de lis at the corner of King’s Hwy and Creswell. He has chosen the building put on the map by Matthew Linn – the Columbia Cafe. 

French pub food – a brasserie – on King’s Hwy was once thought of as a stretch for Shreveport. But this city is changing. Emboldened by the success of the Fat Calf at Red River Brewery, buttressed by wife Amanda and a cohort of staff and supporters, pushed by the success stories, like Lowder’s Bakery, on the edge of Broadmoor, Highland and S. Highlands, Felan is re-defining King’s Hwy. 

A new parking lot and charming, comfortable foot bridge to connect those parking spots to the restaurant, is an important factor.

The glowing windows of Fat Calf has brought a beacon to a historically key intersection. Highland begins to be S. Highlands here. And the legacy of Linn’s work – Krewe of Highland parade, bicycle tours, benefits galore, art and music – may be kept alive. 

We watched the restaurant fill with partiers on Wed night. As our group got burgers, pork chops, French onion soup and glasses of wine the food seemed to be defined as quite good. Desserts shared between the eaters were declared phenomenal. Service was attentive and smooth. I noticed online that chef Libby Smith, of SALT Cafe, recently had the “vegan option of roasted butternut squash medallions with cauliflower mash and charred Brussels sprouts with balsamic reduction and sunflower seeds. Divine!”

The Fat Calf Brasserie is a meaty gamble on a tricky corner. We want to know, ‘Which restaurant will have to die so this one can live?’ Maybe none, eh?